Ancient Maasai Stone Kraals in Uasin Gishu

By William Kiptoo. The description below follows the Scottish explorer Joseph Thomson, who crossed the Uasin Gishu plateau in 1883 and wrote about it in Through Masai Land (1885).

You may have seen the hollow, cave-like formations scattered across parts of Uasin Gishu County. Early European writers called them ancient Maasai stone kraals.

When Thomson passed through in 1883, the Uasin Gishu plateau was an expanse of grassland, serving as a grazing ground for the Wa-kwafi tribe until they were forcibly displaced by the Masai. Following their departure, the buffalo, eland, hartebeest, rhinoceros, and zebra thrived undisturbed, save for occasional encounters with passing caravans of European explorers or the Andorobo people.

Dotting the plateau were numerous Maasai kraals, circular enclosures constructed from earth with strategically placed openings. Due to the scarcity of wood, the houses within these kraals were built using stone and mud. These structures resembled mounds of stone and earth, with central openings that were covered with bullock hides during harsh weather. The inhabitants would then nestle inside, resembling birds in their nests. Today, these kraals are merely remnants of earthworks, forming circular outlines on the landscape. The abundance of game, particularly buffalo, was truly amazing.

Note: the early writers credited these enclosures to the Maasai. Archaeologists and Kalenjin oral tradition today generally know them as Sirikwa holes and link them to the Sirikwa people, whose homesteads were built around a sunken cattle enclosure, often lined with stone where the ground was rocky, as on the Uasin Gishu plateau. See Sirikwa culture, Sonnie Cloete’s account of the stone holes and The History of the Uasin Gishu Plateau on this blog.

Sources

  • Joseph Thomson, Through Masai Land (London: Sampson Low, Marston, Searle and Rivington, 1885). HathiTrust full view
  • “Sirikwa culture”, Wikipedia. Link
  • “Wie was hulle, waar vandaan, waarheen”, Habari, Friends of East Africa, 1983, pp. 14–15, on the “Maasai holes” near Sergoit lake. Habari guide on this blog

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